Category Archives: SHELTER

Shelter would include location, building materials, style,

Fire starter insert

Fire starter www.PrepareSurviveThrive.US
Gather tinder in a pile next to where you intend to start your fire. Use the driest material available. You should have 5 times more tinder and kindling ready than you think you will need. Unless you have extra hands available and foraging for fire wood – gather 5 times more of that than you think you will need for the night.

Lay your fire.

Pare a small pile of magnesium shavings – at least enough to cover a quarter. Use a sharp knife or other metal tool held at 90 degrees to the magnesium block. The magnesium shavings will burn extremely hot [over 3,000 degrees] and fast.
When ready strike the Ferro rod [flint] aiming the sparks toward the magnesium shavings.

To prevent serious injury and property damage: keep away from children, wear ANSI-approved safety goggles and heavy-duty work gloves during use, use as intended only, inspect before every use. Magnesium in solid form is safe do not pare shavings until ready to use. Clear ground of flammable material 5 feet around fire site. Do not leave fire unattended and be prepared to extinguish fire completely

Mormon handcarts

Mormon handcarts for evacuations

Recently while checking up on friends and family on Facebook I ran across a picture of a family I know. They were participating in the sesquicentennial celebration of the pioneer trek the “Mormons” [The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints] did when the early church migrated to Utah. The hand carts that they built and used for this trek were very sturdy and could carry a heavy load. The people were very sturdy too, both then and now.

Literally these people carried all of their worldly goods with them. They walked over one thousand miles rain or shine, pulling the handcarts for months on end. In this day and age how many of us could pull that off today? Not many I bet.

Every year our town has “Frontier Days” 9 days of rodeo and party. There are 4 parades during this time and the local LDS members [Mormons] always has handcarts in the parades. Very interesting to watch.

Hold that picture in your mind and follow me down this rabbit trail if you will. ; ]

I have seen what some people call their 72 hour kits. Some of them have weighed in at 70lbs and they think that they are going to bug out on foot when the SHTF. Or worse they don’t plan on walking at all so they have boxes of stuff in the car and then hit the long parking lot of the freeway out of town and use all of the gas in 10 miles of bumper to bumper traffic.

With this in mind another friend and his family built a Mormon handcart to base their bug out plans on. I think that he had a good idea. Following is a report on how large of a payload could be carried by the handcarts.

***The handcarts generally carried up to 250 pounds (110 kg) of supplies and luggage, though they were capable of handling loads as heavy as 500 pounds (230 kg). Carts used in the first year’s migration were made entirely of wood (“Iowa hickory or oak”); in later years a stronger design was substituted, which included metal elements.[10][11][12]
The handcart companies were organized using the handcarts and sleeping tents as the primary units. Five persons were assigned per handcart, with each individual limited to 17 pounds (7.7 kg) of clothing and bedding. Each round tent, supported by a center pole, housed 20 occupants and was supervised by a tent captain. Five tents were supervised by the captain of a hundred (or “sub-captain”). Provisions for each group of one hundred emigrants were carried in an ox wagon, and were distributed by the tent captains. Excerpted from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mormon_handcart_pioneers ***

http://www.preparesurvivethrive.us/shelter-mobile-1/

http://www.preparesurvivethrive.us/ready-or-not-things-will-happen/

http://www.preparesurvivethrive.us/ready-or-not-fun-things-will-happen/

http://www.preparesurvivethrive.us/driving-plan-1/

http://www.preparesurvivethrive.us/rally-points/

http://www.preparesurvivethrive.us/why-72-hours/

http://www.preparesurvivethrive.us/cb-radio/

http://www.preparesurvivethrive.us/are-you-prepared/

http://www.preparesurvivethrive.us/water-storage-2l-coke-bottles-2/

Shelter mobile 1

Shelter mobile 1

Combine both of these with a few modifications and make mobile. I have some more ideas…. ; ] Rich

http://qz.com/413081/portable-solar-powered-ecocapsules-mean-you-can-live-rent-and-electric-bill-free-globally/

http://www.wimp.com/insidecamper/?utm_medium=cpm&utm_source=fba&utm_content=insidecamper&utm_campaign=traffic/
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I like the egg shaped one but not the
price. The fan shaped one has a little more room
though. How would you modify them?
Sent from my Verizon Wireless
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The client is on continuous oxygen via an electric concentrator along with other life support machines. Some of the medications have to be refrigerated.
To start with ……

I think that if we started with a basic cargo trailer with roof vent and drop down back door and side man door. For this discussion and as a basic starting point an 8’ x 14 – 30’ trailer would be good. A cargo trailer is –hopefully – stronger built, will haul more and stand up to hard use better. On the roof I would want to permanently mount solar panels at least 200 – 500 watts worth –maybe more, will have to cipher on it more. On each of the front corners install brackets for 400 – 600 watts wind gens which would be stored when not in use or driving.
Batteries, golf cart ones sized to be able to run everything for 48 to 72 hours between charges. Not that I would want to do it that way, just so that if there is no sun or wind we could still function…. Also the vehicle would be able to charge the system while the engine is running. As a back-up there would MAYBE be a very small gen set AFTER all the rest of the camper is set up. Power inverter 3,000 to 5.000 watts x 3. Would set the trailer up to use shore power if it is available and to charge / maintain the battery system. A small [dorm type] 110 frig and chest freezer along with a microwave. Lights would be cfl, LED or shop lights.

100 gallon fresh water tank inside the trailer, with a pump to pressurize the system 5 – 10 water heater. Would set up rain water harvesting and stream/pond water harvesting. Up to 200 gal raw water holding / treatment tanks. Have at least one gal of bleach on hand for water treatment. PLUS a chlorine generator for long term. With this type of system we could expand from 2 people to 20 fairly easy.
Grey water would have a smaller holding tank that can either be sent to the sewer OR if out in the boonnies have a hose to drain it at least 100 feet away or to a garden if camping that long. A small walk in shower.
Composting toilet
As part of the rain water harvesting would use tarps that would also expand the living area around the trailer.
Whatever we would use to haul the trailer would have an extra 50 to 200 gal of fuel capacity.
888 What are your thoughts on this set up?

lighting

Lighting is a very good thing to have anytime and especially during an emergency situation. check out http://www.preparesurvivethrive.us/lighting-low-power/
There are other low power lights that can be of use too. I have some LED Christmas lights that run off of 2 double A batteries. With rechargeable batteries they will run for 60 plus hours.

soap follow up

This is a follow up on the Homemade Laundry Detergent Blog. I found some more information from our daughter, friends who have done this before and the internet.

How to make washing soda from Baking Soda-
Pour baking soda onto cookie sheet with no oil
Place into 400 degree preheated oven
Bake for 45 to 60 minutes
Washing soda will look dull and be a finer grade of granules
Baking Soda cost $2.24 for 4 lbs and Washing Soda is $3.24 so Baking Soda is cheaper (These prices are from Wal mart)
-if you cook the baking soda at the same time as you are cooking a cake, roast or potatoes you will save the cost of cooking it – in other words you will kill two birds with one stone.

For the bar soap to use, you can use any soap you want to but the suggestions were to keep away from the heavy scented soaps. Ivory soap, Castile or if you have soap allergies use the bar or liquid soap that works with your skin.

In my research there was one recipe that called to use 2 TBS of Glycerin in the 5 gallons of liquid detergent. Glycerin would cause the detergent to be a more smooth consistency instead of gloppy gel and would also act as a natural fabric softener.

Other recipes call for adding even more water to the solution, so experiment with using this with your water (if you have hard water or if you have a water softener) and the dirtiness of your laundry.

This is good detergent to use for babies because it is not full of chemicals next to their delicate skin.
It also does not cause high suds.

To make homemade powdered soap-
Finely grate your bar soap
1 cup of washing soda
1 cup of borax

After mixing all ingredients only use 2 tablespoons in a full load HE front load washer. Again experiment with your water and dirty clothes to fine tune the amount to use. So, after you make sure that this works for your skin and clothes, then you can make up more and store away to use at a later date or at least store the ingredients to add to your storage. This will make a big difference in the amount of money you will have to use to put away a years’ worth.

For fabric softener, most of the information I found was that you just use ¼ cup of vinegar in the rinse cycle of the HE front loader washing machine with essential oil. If you do not like the smell of vinegar then add your drops of essential oil to the rinse cycle instead of the wash cycle. Basically you can add the essential oil at any stage of the wash or drying. I like it better and it seems to work better to add the essential oil to the dryer.

To make dryer sheets you can use 5” squares of 100% cotton material, that can be from used clothing or you could crochet 5” squares of cotton yarn. Place essential oil onto the material and throw into the dryer. You can use this same square and placing the essential oil onto it each time used for at least 5 loads of clothes, then wash the square. The square can then be used for another 5 loads until you rewash it again. Both the material and the essential oils can be stored away for a later date to use. The key to maintaining oils is to store it air tight.

BOL idea

There are many places that may make a good Bug Out Location or at least a way point to some place else. One such place that I visited several years ago looked ideal [except that I am sure that others have the same idea and would most likely get there sooner than I would now.] I list it as an example to look for. This ‘park’ was about 45 miles from home at the time and was along the route that I would have traveled during a bug out. ;]

The park is a natural rock bridge that had been carved over the centuries by a large creek.

The park portion had several hiking trails and there were those standing BBQ cook areas with picnic tables that were comfortable for the lunch we had packed.

The site was / is very beautiful and has a rich history as an oasis for the local American Indians. One of the pluses is that it is well protected from the wind. Some of the other features included more than enough fresh water for the tribe and their animals. There are several apple trees which are reputed to have been planted by the Indians. Game such as fish, deer, rabbits and birds are plentiful. I didn’t have time to search very hard but there were many edible plants such as Purslane, plantain, cattails, milkweed and burdock.

I can really see why the Indians would tarry there and perhaps even a good place to settle in the general area.

Homemade Liquid Laundry Detergent

Homemade Liquid Laundry Detergent

Well, while our daughter was gone on vacation this summer I made my first batch of homemade laundry detergent. I have been meaning to make it for years but never got around to doing it. Our daughter has been making her laundry detergent for the last couple of years. It was much easier to do than I thought it would be and is so much cheaper. She said it only cost about $2 to make a 5 gallon bucket full and only using ½ cup for each load, will last quite a while. To get all of the ingredients it is almost $7 but compared to ready made laundry detergent is much cheaper. She gets all of the ingredients at Wal-Mart. She said if a load is really dirty she will add oxi-clean which she gets at the Dollar Tree for a dollar and will last for a while depending on how dirty your children get their clothes. The ingredients for the laundry detergent are below:

1 five gallon bucket, these you can get at paint stores or Wal-Mart or Home Depot
1 bar of soap-you can use Fels Naphtha or Zote which are only 97 cents
1 cup of Washing Soda, use washing soda not Baking Soda they are different about $3
1 cup of Borax, which usually goes by “20 Mule Borax” about $3

Other items needed are a cheese grater, a long handled stirring spoon, a pot that will hold at least 4 cups of water and a measuring cup. If you would like to add a different scent to the soap you can use essential oils, however, I prefer the scent of the ZOTE bar soap to Fels Naphtha. Whatever the color of the soap is will be the color of the detergent.

Use the cheese grater to grate the bar of soap and put it in 4 cups of water and put on medium high heat so that the soap dissolves in the water, do not boil. Pour this into the bucket and add 1 cup of Washing Soda and 1 cup of Borax to the mixture and stir until all is dissolved. If you want to add a different scent, now is the time to add that. Fill the bucket half way and stir. Place the half full bucket at the point where you will be using it and stir. Then add water until filled up to about an inch below the top of the bucket. You will still need to stir the detergent so don’t overfill. Place the top on the bucket and let stand for 24 hours. The detergent will look like a gloppy gel, and that is how it is supposed to look. You can leave it in the bucket or put in smaller containers whichever is more convenient for you. If you don’t like the gloppy gel you can pour some out and use a blender to make it more even looking that will be just your preference. It does not affect the way it works one way or the other.

For a front loader HE washing machine use ½ cup for a large load – you will get about 160 loads out of the 5 gallons-, if you use a top loading washer you can use up to 1 cup – about 80 loads out of the 5 gallons- for each large load. And adjust as needed. Most commercial laundry products tell you to use too much soap per load so that you use more and have to buy more.

If you have any questions or concerns or have a different way that you make your laundry detergent, please share your comments. we would love to hear your comments.

www.PrepareSurviveThrive.US

Home invasion part 1c

Alarm systems are a good idea too. Each door and window can be equipped with magnet switches so that they sound when the door or window is opened and they can be either local only or hooked up to a central panel which can call the police and or fire department as needed. Monitored systems are considered to be the best situation. Most monitored alarm systems depend upon land line telephones to call for help. It is too bad that telephone lines can be cut which disables the notification properties and the bad guys know this. There is a new system out which uses cell phone technologies to make the connection with the authorities and cell phones being wireless can not have the wires cut. Simply Safe is the first such alarm system that I have heard of and it supposed to be great. I have not actually seen them but they do sound good. This is as far into monitored alarms that we will go into at this time.

You can go the DIY route in setting up alarms with simple dead man switches that when ‘tripped’ would sound the alarm noise system to wake you up and hopefully scare the bad guys away. You can also get off the shelf components for really advanced alarm systems. We will talk about this more later.

Some considerations that are often overlooked. Regardless of how ‘good’ your security set is, it is useless without you the human factor. If you do not pay attention to detail and consistency. Set up whatever procedure that you are going to use and follow it all the time. Another thing to kept in mind is that IF someone is willing to invade your home knowing that you are home they may be looking to do more than just rob you. If cornered the bad guy most likely will do whatever they think that they have to, to get away if caught. This includes inflicting great bodily harm to you or even killing you. Do not delude yourself into thinking that they wont.

http://www.preparesurvivethrive.us/home-invasion-part-1a/

Home invasion part 1b

Doorways deserve special considerations for lights. There should be general switchable lights that do not leave shadows AND motion activated spot lights which only come on when someone is within 6 to 10 feet.

That takes care of the lighting on your outer and inner parameters. Next we will discuss indoor lighting.

Any lights on the inside of the home when you are not actively using the rooms should be keep low and diffuse so that you can see to move around in the room, but dim enough so that someone on the outside with the stronger light will not be able to see clearly into your house. To see for your self how this works have a friend [and you too when it is your turn at their home] dress in dark clothing and have them walk up to your house with the indoor lights on but the outside lights off and then again with your inside light off and your front porch light on. If you can arrange to do the same thing with someone who has motion activated lights, all the better. ;]

On the inside of the house you can set up lights that are both switchable and motion detecting. The entranceway can have spotlights so that when the door opens you can see whoever is coming in better than they can see you. Each entrance to each room ideally will have switches which can turn the lights on AND off. Some people that I know have room lights that are set up on remote controls so that you can turn on a light in another room from where you to distract an intruder. I think that is a great idea.

Ideally your security lights / system should have backup power so that they stay working even in a power outage.

This is just a quick once over on the light topic.

http://www.preparesurvivethrive.us/home-invasion-part-1a/

Home invasion part 1a

Home invasion

Awhile back an ‘elderly’ friend, who is a snow bird, related that they had just that week returned from a trip. The night of their return their home and RV was burgled while they slept on the second floor. Fortunately this was discovered when they got up the next day instead of the intruders waking them up to get more stuff out of them. Thankfully the criminals ‘only’ stole and damaged stuff instead of beating and or killing the home owners.

Some general observations and opinions about this situation. The times that you are most vulnerable are the time while you are in transit to and from home [or destination] and the time right around that. Generally you are less alert due to the details and confusion of packing/unpacking and being tired after the trip. Often valuables are not as secure as people are often too tired to put stuff away properly.

Some considerations to improve your general security and safety. Shorten the time spent on each leg of your journey so that you can be more alert.

Keep the outside of your home well lighted with lights on poles such as ‘streetlights’ or lamp posts. Switchable lights over each window / doorway and at the corners of the house tends to dissuade people from trying to break into your home, scatter some motion activated spot light fixtures pointing out from the house that are coupled with some sort of noise maker like a radio other music player will help to alert you to activity.

You can set up switchable general lighting systems on your fence which will also tend to keep wrong doers away. Most robbers that I have dealt with would stay in the shadows and avoid well lighted situations.